KOWLOON. What started in 1948 as a catering business is today a thriving restaurant serving what many people consider to be the best Cantonese cuisine in Hong Kong. The food is labor-intensive and refined, with numerous double boiled soups and the more exotic of traditional Chinese ingredients (bird's nest, fish maw) making frequent appearances. Shark's fin dishes are numerous ­ indeed, Braised Most Superior Shark's Fin with Brown Sauce is widely regarded as the finest on offer anywhere. Abalone is a specialty, and Fook Lam Moon ages theirs carefully for the tenderest results. The food far outshines décor and service, but if you're looking for authenticity, Fook Lam Moon delivers admirably.

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